The North by Northwest Motorcycle Tour

The western seaboard offers ever changing vistas of islands and long sea-lochs. This tour is quite in-depth. It’s a chance to get to know some of the special charms of the rugged coast from Oban right up to the north-west. Then it’s back east into the heart of the Highlands. Seacoast and mountains: the best of Scotland.

Day 1: From Glasgow it’s an easy distance north to Loch Lomond. From Edinburgh, go west from Stirling along the edge of the Campsie Hills to reach the loch. Then, with Ben Lomond as a landmark, the lochside road reaches Tarbet. Here, your upland riding really begins: up and over the scenic pass of the Rest and Be Thankful, then down to sea-level again to the handsome little town of Inveraray. Next, it’s north and west, by Ben Cruachan and Loch Awe for the overnight stop at Dunstaffnage, by Oban.

Day 2: Oban is the ferry gateway to the west, and you’ll soon be at Craignure on the isle of Mull, with spectacular Duart Castle nearby. Then head west by Glen More and the western seaboard of the island by narrow, though spectacular, roads, with great sea views. Complete the (clockwise) circuit of the island to reach colourful little Tobermory for overnight.

Day 3: The ferry takes you to Kilchoan, back on the mainland on the rugged Ardnamurchan peninsula. A little road goes west to the impressive seascapes by the lighthouse – the most westerly mainland point of the UK. Take it easy on the way back east amongst the oakwoods by Loch Suinart, then turn north through Bonnie Prince Charlie country – sublime scenery all the way to Lochailort where you join the ‘Road to the Isles’, going west and north by Arisaig and Morar (with its famous white sands) for an overnight stop at Mallaig.

Day 4: Great views from the ferry to Armadale on Skye. Let the weather decide your Skye day. Great views of the Cuillin Hills if you take the Tarskavaig loop north of Armadale. Or make your way via Broadford to the island ‘capital’ Portree (shops, heritage centre). Then either visit Dunvegan Castle to the west or take the Trotternish loop north round the top of the island and, if time permits, also check out the Glenbrittle road for amazing mountain landscapes. Leave the island by the Skye bridge at Kyleakin for overnight at Plockton.

Day 5: Plockton has boats for hire if you want a change! Otherwise the round trip for the day explores this dramatic area by going north-east through the mountains by Glen Carron to Achnasheen, then west (towards Kinlochewe) and an unmissable vista down to Loch Maree. Continue by the old pinewoods of Loch Maree to Gairloch (shops, museum) and Poolewe (famous garden). Return by Loch Maree, this time heading west through Glen Torridon with more awesome mountains. Circle south by Shieldaig and Lochcarron for Plockton again.

Day 6: Open roads across the backbone of Scotland: a south and east loop by Loch Duich and the icon of Eilean Donan Castle, then past the soaring peaks of Glenshiel and on via Glen Moriston for Loch Ness. Next, it’s north via Drumnadrochit, with its monster exhibitions, for Inverness, the Highland capital. Time for a visit to the battlefield of Culloden nearby, then you head east via Nairn and Elgin. Turn south for the valley of the River Spey and overnight at Craigellachie.

Day 7: Explore the river valley upstream, through the birchwoods via Grantown-on-Spey for the resort of Aviemore and the top carpark of the ski centre. Ride the funicular railway – Britain’s highest – for great views across the valley. Afterwards, take the little back road from Coylumbridge for Boat of Garten, with its preserved steam railway. There’s a tour of Glenfiddich as well, at Dufftown, just minutes east from Craigellachie, your base for a second night.

Day 8: Last day – but there are wide-open roads to discover as you cross the big domes of the Gramian Hills. Go via Dufftown and Glenlivet for Tomintoul, then on past Corgarff Castle out on the moors. You’ll reach Royal Deeside just by Balmoral Castle. Head west for one last high pass in the heart of the Cairngorms National Park: the highest main road in Scotland south of Braemar at Glenshee. Then it’s down to the Lowlands at Perth for Glasgow or Edinburgh.